What is PU Leather?

I once strutted into the pub in a “leather” jacket I’d picked up on sale. Thought I looked like Beckham. Ten pints later, some lad leaned over the pool table and said, “Mate, your sleeve’s melting.” Sure enough, the corner was peeling like the sunburn on my back after Ibiza ‘09. PU leather. Fake as my gym membership.

And that’s PU for you. Looks sharp under neon lights, betrays you the minute you start living in it. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve had PU belts survive curry nights and office life, but you’ve got to know it’s a fling, not a marriage.

So, what is PU leather?

PU stands for polyurethane leather. Except it’s not leather. It’s fabric with a plastic jacket on top, grain pattern stamped in so you feel like James Bond until the rain hits. Think fake ID vibes: convincing from afar, falls apart at the door.

How it’s cooked up

Factory lads take fabric, slap a polyurethane film on it, press in a fake grain, job done. Sometimes they chuck in a slice of split leather underneath and flog it as “bicast”. Same sandwich, more posh name. Because it’s plastic-coated, it’s tidy, water-resistant and wipes clean after a kebab spill. But once it cracks, it stays cracked—no cobbler in the world can save it.

If you want to see how the real deal behaves, have a nosey at Properties of Leather. Spoiler: it ages like Clooney, not like me after five Jägerbombs.

The good, the bad, the ugly

Good bits: cheap, neat, laughs at rain. Bad bits: peels like cheap wallpaper in a damp flat, creases at the elbows and ages quicker than my mate Dave after his stag do. Real leather gets a patina. PU gets a crack. End of.

Cleaning PU without swearing (too much)

Don’t even think about conditioners. PU has no fibres to feed. It just wants wiping down, like the kebab sauce on your shirt. A damp cloth sorts the daily grime. If it’s looking rough, I give it a spin with Saphir Combi Pflege. Works a charm, doesn’t try to be clever.

Then I mist on Collonil Carbon Pro Spray. Mist, not drench. Think Lynx Africa before a night out, not deodorising the entire pub.

When PU leather makes sense

Belts that just need to hold your jeans up on curry night. Trainers with “leather” bits that are basically decoration. Jackets you’ll wear until the next trend hits. Great for short flings, useless for family heirlooms.

Spotting PU like a pro (or at least a sober lad)

Look close: the pores repeat like wallpaper in your nan’s hallway. Sniff it: it smells more like a new car showroom than an old saddle. Feel it: it feels cold and plasticky, similar to the tables at your local pub. If it peels at the corners, mate, it’s PU.

My embarrassing lessons

Never dry it on the radiator. Did that once—came back from the match, my “leather” jacket looked like a poppadom. Never use baby wipes. Tried it in a taxi, belt went cloudy before we hit Camden. And never polish it like calfskin. It won’t shine, it’ll laugh, then crack.

If ink explodes in your bag (cheers to the biro that died on me mid-train), check my saga here: How to Get Pen Off Leather.

FAQ

Is pu leather real leather?
Nah. It’s fabric in a plastic jacket. All mouth, no trousers.

Does pu leather peel?
Yep. Usually corners and elbows. Once it peels, you’re done.

Can I condition it like my boots?
Nope. Don’t waste the cream. Just wipe and spray.

Is pu leather eco-friendly?
Sort of. There were no cows present, but there was plenty of plastic. Doesn’t last long, ends up in the bin.