Nubuck vs Suede

I once told a stranger on the Northern Line my suede boots were nubuck. I said it with the confidence of a man ordering wine he can’t pronounce. Five minutes later, I was secretly Googling under my coat, praying there wasn’t a quiz at the next stop. That’s nubuck vs suede for you, the leather world’s identical twins—one slightly sturdier, the other more of a diva.

Both look soft, both sulk when wet, both will break your heart if you try to dry them on a radiator (ask the ghost of my warped loafers). One ages like a fine whisky, the other like milk left in the staff fridge. Let’s sort them out before someone else has to do a shameful Google on public transport.

What nubuck vs suede actually means (without a lab coat)

Suede comes from the inner split of the hide, all fluffy fibres and velvet drama. Nubuck is from the grain side, sanded just enough to feel velvety but still tough, like suede’s older sibling who lifts weights and owns shoe trees. Suede will stain if you look at it funny. Nubuck holds itself together when life gets mucky, though it still sulks in heavy rain.

If you like nerdy side quests, suede often comes from Split Leather. Nubuck keeps the grain intact, which makes it feel more like proper leather and less like a sponge with delusions of grandeur.

How to tell them apart without a magnifying glass

Do the brush test. On suede, stroking the nap gives dramatic light and dark swirls, like you’ve just mown a lawn. Nubuck? There was a subtle shift in the fog. Bend the shoe. Suede creases like a soft old cardigan. Nubuck bends with a clean line, less fluff, more backbone.

Water drop test, carefully. A drop on nubuck lingers, then darkens. On suede it sinks in instantly like it’s been waiting all day for drama. Either way, blot, don’t rub, unless you want to design your own watermark collection.

Which Lasts Longer: Nubuck or Suede?

Nubuck wins on toughness. Suede wins on looking like you actually own an Italian villa. Both hate sudden showers, sticky floors and kebab sauce. If you’re a commuter or festival-goer, nubuck’s your mate. If you waft around in linen shirts, suede will make sense, at least until it rains sideways.

Oh and for the love of patina, never dry them on radiators. I once did and they shrank like a Sunday roast Yorkshire pud.

Cleaning nubuck vs suede, with actual tools not kitchen roll

I used to attack suede with a damp tissue. Result: shiny bald patch shaped like Wales. What you actually need is a decent eraser, something like the Saphir Gommadin Suede Eraser. It rubs off greasy bits without leaving your shoes looking like they’ve had a bad haircut.

For nubuck, I swear by the Collonil Nubuck Box Sponge. It’s firm enough to lift dirt from the grain without chewing the nap, brilliant for the corners where London dust collects like an unpaid lodger.

If neither works, stop before you cry and hand it to a pro. Seriously.

Conditioning: tricky business

Don’t go slathering them with rich leather cream. Nap leathers don’t like it, they’ll go patchy or darker. Stick to sprays for suede and nubuck, always patch test. If you’re curious about the big picture of leather types, this rant will entertain you while you dry your socks: Leather vs Suede.

The five-second chooser

Want velvet, don’t mind faffing? Suede. Want soft but sturdier, fewer tears in the rain? Nubuck. Want none of the above? Wellies.

My little ritual that keeps them going

After wearing them, I give a quick brush, stuff them with paper (not yesterday’s takeaway flyer, unless you want garlic perfume forever), then leave them to breathe. Sometimes I forget the kettle in the process. Sometimes I forget the shoes. But the shoes, unlike the kettle, never explode.

FAQ

So, is nubuck basically posh suede?
Not really. Same family, different diet. Nubuck is the grain side buffed up, suede is the inner fluff.

Rain spotted my nubuck bag, now what?
Stuff it, dry it naturally, then feather out the marks with the Collonil Nubuck Box Sponge. If the spot looks like a map of Cornwall afterwards, see a pro.

Is suede really that delicate?
Yes, but also no. Depends on the finish, thickness, tanning. I wore suede loafers through three summers before they gave up. They looked like they’d been through Glastonbury twice, but they tried.

Can I condition nubuck like normal leather?
Nope. Heavy creams kill the nap. Use a spray, test in a hidden bit, then relax with a drink while it dries.