How to Waterproof Your Shoes for Autumn & Winter 2026
How I Stopped Ruining My Shoes Every Winter (And How You Can Too)
How to waterproof your shoes for Autumn & Winter? I only worked it out about a decade ago. Waterproofing spray. Not just for ramblers and the sort of people own gaiters. Ordinary spray, for ordinary shoes, worn by ordinary men who'd rather not watch their favourite footwear disintegrate come February.
I learned the hard way, mind. Watched a perfectly good pair of brogues, cost me a fair bit—turn into what I can only describe as sad, salt-stained relics after one week of commuting through drizzle. The perforations, those lovely little holes that make brogues what they are, had become traps for grime and white salt deposits. That was the moment. Lesson learnt, as they say.
This year, I'm getting ahead of it, retired from making the same mistakes twice. Here's what I've figured out.
Why Autumn and Winter Are Out to Get Your Footwear
Rain is only half the story. Road salt is the real villain. It's not just those white marks you get on the toes though they're bad enough. Salt actively sucks moisture out of leather fibres. Left alone, it cracks smooth leather and grinds down suede from the inside. A simple seasonal routine can therefore be.
And let's be honest: the Met Office isn't giving us much hope this season. If last winter was anything to go by, we're in for a soaking. My wallet is still in recovery from the last one. At my age, you start doing the maths on these things.
While a good waterproofing spray protects the outside of your footwear from the damp, you'll also want to read my guide on the best winter and autumn insoles to stop your toes from freezing on the inside.
What Actually Happens Out There
Leather is skin. Took me years to properly appreciate that. When it gets wet and dries badly usually because I've shoved it next to a radiator, impatient as ever it stiffens and cracks. Brogues, with their decorative perforations, are particularly vulnerable. Those holes aren't just for show they let water seep deeper into the leather, and the salt gets in there too. One bad winter and your brogues look like they've been through the wars. I've had shoes that looked older after one winter than I did after my first divorce.
The fix isn't complicated, but it's not a one-time miracle either. Waterproofing is maintenance, not magic. You cannot spray once in October and expect to wade through February. I tried that. Didn't work.
How I Waterproof My Shoes Without Making a Mess
Step one: clean first.
Learned this the hard way, like most things worth knowing. Spraying over dirt just traps it under what I can only describe as a plastic-smelling force field. Brush or wipe the shoes, let them dry fully, then start.
Pay particular attention to those perforations get the dirt out of the holes with a soft brush or a cotton bud. Spray damp leather and you're basically building a greenhouse for mould. Nobody wants that.
Step two: check the material.
Suede needs spray. Never wax. Wax on suede is like putting gravy on ice cream,technically possible but absolutely tragic.
Step three: spray evenly from the right distance.
For Collonil Carbon Pro that is about 30 cm. Check the can because every formula is different. Two light coats beat one heavy soak every time. A heavy coat pools, dries patchily and can darken leather in spots that make it look like you have a disease. Not a good look at any age, particularly not mine.
Step four: let them dry naturally.
No radiators. No hairdryers. Just patience. I leave mine overnight because at my age, I've learnt that some things can't be rushed. Shoes are one of them. Stuff them with newspaper if they're particularly wet, helps them keep their shape and draws out the moisture.
Step five: reapply.
Collonil suggests every 12 to 15 wears. I treat that as a loose guide. If I've been splashing through puddles for a fortnight, I reapply sooner. If I've been staying in for three weeks happens more often these days I don't bother. If water stops beading, it's time for another round. Simple as that.
Which Spray I Actually Use
I have narrowed it down to four depending on what I am protecting.
is my workhorse. Covers leather, suede, nubuck, textiles, even Gore-Tex and Sympatex membranes. Collonil's best-seller for a reason.
The 400ml can gives you 33 per cent extra free. If you want one spray that does almost everything, this is it. This is what I use on my everyday brogues, the ones that see the most pavement.
Collonil 1909 Supreme is what I reach for when my better brogues need love. Part of Collonil's heritage line, and it freshens up colour while it protects.
Perfect for formal leather and anyone who wants their Oxfords and brogues to look sharp. At my age, I've got a few decent pairs that need looking after properly. This does the job.
is the economy option for households or serial collectors. The big can treats multiple pairs without running out mid-season. Creates an invisible barrier across leather, suede, nubuck and synthetics.
Good if you've got a family who all refuse to look after their own footwear.
is the straightforward everyday option. The 400ml size covers your main rotation while the 100ml tin is brilliant for travel or for trying waterproofing without committing to a giant aerosol. Not fancy, but it gets the job done. Sometimes that's all you need.
My Seasonal Checklist
Leather: clean, check the finish, spray, condition and polish if needed. Suede and nubuck: brush, spot-clean, dry fully, spray and restore the nap. Boots: check soles, remove mud and spray while you still have dry pavement. Technical footwear: confirm membrane compatibility, follow instructions and reapply as needed.
How Often Is Often Enough?
There's no universal rule. Daily commuters need more attention than weekend walkers. The 12 to 15 wears guide from Collonil is a solid baseline.
My rough calendar is simple, protect everything in October, touch up in December, and give the most-worn pairs another coat ahead of February's freeze-thaw chaos. February's always the worst. Always has been.
Do Not Wait or the First Downpour
A £15 can of spray beats a £150 replacement pair every single time. I've done the maths, and I've done the mourning. More than once. This year, my brogues are getting protected ahead of the first downpour. Yours should too. Trust me on this one. I'm too old to be giving bad advice.
